Davos is famous for its mountains, the World Economic Forum, and as the setting of Thomas Mann’s “The Magic Mountain”. However, Davos is also an exciting winter destination, perfect for activities between snow and ice.
What could be cozier than snuggling warmly in bed while a snowstorm rages outside? How about staying at the Igloo Hotel above Davos, wrapped in a sleeping bag at an altitude of 2,750 meters? While the storm howls outside, you can relax, surrounded by thick ice and fluffy down to your nose, listening to the roaring winds.
Sleeping Bags in Icy Heights
„Igloo hotels are passé,“ some might say dismissively. But for those who haven’t already experienced everything, spending a night under the icy domes of the Igloo Hotel offers a unique adventure in frosty heights. Since I’m already in Davos, I decide to find even more winter adventures over the coming days. Off I go!
Ice Golfing
How about a round of mini-golf on ice? Really, with a hockey stick and puck? Why not! In Davos, anything goes. Whether it’s fur hats with designer jackets, stilettos with pink ski suits, or fur hats paired with skater caps, the style rules are as flexible as the activities.
This winter, ice mini-golf has made its debut at Arkadenplatz, in the heart of Davos Platz. After years of being somewhat neglected, the area underwent renovations, leading to a complete revitalization. Today, travelers from all over the world sit in the cafés beneath the arcades, built before World War I, enjoying the winter sun while admiring the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) tiles and spherical lights.
Sophisticated Davos
A Pekingese’s head peeks out of a Gucci bag, vibrant aperitifs compete with colorful ski outfits, and shopping bags are filled in the boutiques and stores around the square. Children scurry between the mini-golf courses, and couples in moon boots snap selfies with hockey sticks in hand.
But it’s clear that no one is overly concerned about serious competition. The narrow ice tracks, thickly padded sheepskin seats crafted from repurposed pallets, and steaming beverages serve more as a relaxing backdrop for a perfect vacation afternoon in the Swiss Alps.
Ice Dream
Just a stone’s throw from the ice mini-golf, the Ice Dream Davos offers a more active experience on its 4,500-square-meter ice rink next to the Davos ice stadium. Of course, there’s also a bar and rustic wooden tables, but the main attraction is ice skating and curling, drawing both locals and tourists.
In the center of the rink, a space is reserved for hockey games, while larger and smaller „ice princes and princesses“ glide and pirouette around the perimeter to chill-out music. When night falls, colorful light reflections dance across the ice, and the warm glow from surrounding houses creates a cozy ambiance. On the ski slopes surrounding Davos, moving lights—satellite-guided snow groomers—prepare the slopess for the next day’s adventures in perfect choreography.
Crunching Snow and Frozen Waterfalls
While most guests are still asleep, I ride a post bus with a few ski mountaineers into the Sertig Valley. After a series of curves and climbing higher, I step off at Sertig Dörfli. A handful of traditional Walser houses sit under meters of snow-covered rooftops, framed by a bright blue sky. My mountain guide, Silvan Stadler, awaits.
The snow crunches underfoot as I step out of the hotel the next morning. Snowplows push the freshly fallen snow into white heaps, and icicles dangle from the eaves. As the first light of day breaks, the peaks of Jakobshorn and Rinerhorn, towering to the east of Davos, emerge from the darkness.
„Anyone looking for ice will find it,“ he says with a grin. „The only question is, what kind of ice?“ In daily life, this isn’t a question one often ponders. But when you’re about to climb a frozen waterfall, it suddenly feels like a crucial one.
Off to Ice Climbing
Before we ascend into icy heights, Silvan equips me with ice picks, crampons, and other climbing gear. Fully loaded, we set off deeper into the Sertig Valley. Ice climbing requires a hefty load, and the metallic clinking of ice screws, carabiners, and ice tools creates a soundtrack that sets the mood for the vertical adventure ahead. “Ice climbing is a battle with gear,” Silvan says with a knowing smile.
As we journey further into the valley, the towering massif of Hoch Ducan looms steeper and grander, flanked by its neighboring peaks Mittaghorn and Plattenflue. These challenging ski-mountaineering summits form a dramatic backdrop as we cross the Sertig Stream and make our way up a freshly snow-covered slope to the frozen Sertig Waterfalls.
Fresh Snow Beneath Frozen Cascades
I’m grateful for Silvan breaking the trail ahead, as the snow reaches waist-high in some places. After the first stretch of climbing, my thick clothing and heavy gear start to feel uncomfortably warm.
That changes abruptly as we step from the sunny slope into the shadow of a rock face. Unsurprisingly, frozen waterfalls exist only where the sun rarely reaches. The result? Ice climbing isn’t just a battle with gear—it’s also an experience in bone-chilling cold.
An icy draft rushes down the rock face long before we reach the base of the frozen waterfall. It feels as though someone has thrown open an oversized freezer door. But if you’re venturing into the world of ice climbing, embracing the cold is part of the deal. Silvan explains that the optimal climbing temperature hovers around -5°C, as we approach the glittering cascade of frozen water—a glacial blue masterpiece waiting to be conquered.
A Frosty Breath of Adventure
An icy draft rushes down the rock face long before we reach the base of the frozen waterfall. It feels as if someone has swung open the door of an oversized freezer. But if you’re going ice climbing, you need to make peace with the cold. „The optimal climbing temperature is around -5°C,“ Silvan tells me as we stand at the foot of a broad curtain of ice. Where the waterfall ends at the top is anyone’s guess, likely somewhere behind the overhang about 20 meters above us.
As I mull over the absurdity of climbing vertically up solid ice, Silvan is already gearing up. Calm and methodical, he begins twisting ice screws into the frozen cascade above us to secure the safety rope.
Vertical Ascent on Ice
A few minutes later, Silvan is back down, ready to guide me. He explains where to climb and how to use the curved ice tools. „Drive the tips about five centimeters into the ice,“ he instructs, „and they’ll hold your weight in combination with the crampons, which have elongated front spikes for extra grip.“
Five centimeters doesn’t sound like much to me, and I decide to dig a little deeper. Yet, as I’ll soon learn, there’s an art to balancing effort and technique on the icy verticals of Davos.
Into the Turquoise Blue Ice
It’s just me and the shimmering turquoise-blue ice now. I suppress my fear of slipping, pulling and swinging, pressing and hacking my way up the vertical frozen waterfall. After the first few strikes, I quickly abandon my initial idea of driving the ice tools extra deep. The sharper and more jagged these slightly curved tools are, the harder they are to pull back out once embedded. And the longer I hang on the remaining three points of contact, the more quickly exhaustion sets in.
Mastering the Technique
It becomes clear that the key is adjusting the depth of the strikes just enough to pull yourself up without the tools breaking free, while keeping them shallow enough to avoid unnecessary effort. The crampons, with their forward spikes, don’t go as deep into the ice, but Silvan’s tip to press my heels downward improves their grip.
The finesse of this technique transforms the climb from a daunting physical battle into a rhythm of precise movements. Each adjustment takes me higher, building confidence with every step upward.
A Surge of Confidence
Maybe I’m just convincing myself, but after a few meters, my fear of falling fades. I begin to trust the equipment and climb higher. With every strike, small shards of ice splinter off, tumbling down into the abyss below. My hands grow cold from constantly lifting them high above me, but otherwise, I’m warm. Slowly, steadily, I push myself upward until I finally reach the anchor point.
Turning to look back for the first time, I’m greeted by an expanse of fresh air and the dazzling Sertig Valley bathed in morning sunlight. The wide, treeless slopes stretch out below, golden-brown larch forests shimmer in the distance, and a winding road snakes toward the valley’s exit, beyond which Davos lies.
A High from Ice Climbing
Perhaps it’s the adrenaline rush of ice climbing that leaves me feeling euphoric for days afterward. Or maybe it’s just the relaxed winter vibe of Davos.
Either way, I spend the following days gliding down the wide pistes of Jakobshorn like on rails, floating through untouched powder on the slopes of Pischa, and carving graceful tracks into the snow at Parsenn.
At midday, I recline on a sun lounger outside the Jatzhütte, gazing at majestic 3,000-meter peaks. By evening, I replenish my energy in cozy, pine-paneled Swiss inns with a hearty bowl of Bündner barley soup and, of course, the obligatory Capuns—cheese-covered cabbage rolls that are a regional specialty.
Schatzalp as inspiration for the Magic Mountain
I spend a sun-drenched afternoon at the Hotel Schatzalp, a pearl of Art Nouveau on the mountain above Davos.
Thomas Mann drew his inspiration for „The Magic Mountain“ from here; the building, which is over a hundred meters long, served as a sanatorium for lung patients from all over the world for many decades. And even today, the carefully renovated hotel still exudes the charm of the fin de siècle.
Figure skating meets music stars
I spend an evening in the legendary ice stadium in Davos and let myself be carried away by the „Art on Ice“ show. The program changes every year, but what always remains the same is a spectacular combination of the world’s best figure skaters and their impressive sporting feats, breathtaking light shows and international music stars.
But I still have a fascination for figure skating, even though I’ve never been interested in this sport. Chapeau!
Ice Bathing in lake Schwarzsee
On my final morning in Davos, I’m faced with a personal challenge that tests my limits—not on the ice, but in it.
Swiss adventurer Markus Blum invites me to join him for an ice bath in Schwarzsee. Of course, plunging into freezing water isn’t something you just do on a whim. Preparation is key, and Markus begins by teaching me proper breathing techniques and meditation exercises to relax my body and mind.
When he’s not traversing Greenland, riding camels through deserts, or chasing adventures around the globe, Markus offers ice bathing courses in Switzerland, helping “regular folks” like me step outside their comfort zones.
A Chilling Highlight
Surprisingly, my dip into the ice hole at Davos becomes the exhilarating highlight of an already highlight-filled trip. Yes, it’s freezing—literally—but the sun is shining, my breathing is steady, and an inexplicable energy courses through me as I sit in the icy water.
When I emerge, I feel invincible, as if I could scale every frozen waterfall in Davos without a single ice tool. It’s a moment of triumph that perfectly encapsulates the adventurous spirit of this alpine paradise.
Fancy more Switzerland? How about a city trip to Lucerne? Or perhaps a road trip over Swiss mountain passes? If you feel like skiing, you’ll find Japanese super powder in Sapporo.
Davos
Information
For detailed information about winter activities and much more in Davos Klosters visit davos.ch and klosters.ch . A wide variety of offers, including an ice bathing workshop, can be booked on the website.
Detailed information for Graubünden about activities, attractions, accommodations, and travel options visit graubuenden.ch
Getting There
Travel conveniently by train with SBB to Davos Platz station. From there, most hotels offer shuttle services. The Swiss Travel Pass provides unlimited travel by train, bus, and boat in Switzerland. It also includes free access to public transportation in 90 Swiss cities and entry to 500 museums. Prices start at CHF 279 for a 3-day pass.
Where to Stay
Mountain Plaza Hotel
A newly renovated 4-star hotel located in the heart of Davos Platz. The spacious Superior Rooms feature balconies where you can relax on lounge chairs, wrapped in blankets, while soaking up the winter sun. The hotel offers an excellent breakfast buffet and a 1,000-square-meter wellness area with an indoor pool and bio- and blockhouse saunas. On the ground floor, there’s a rental shop for winter sports equipment. The hotel also provides a shuttle service to the train station and the various ski lift base stations. Double rooms, including breakfast, start at €320. Guests booking directly through the hotel website can access special winter packages that include ski lift tickets and discounted ski rentals. mountainplaza.ch
